Photo by Silvia Ros.

Published in the August, 2008 issue of the Biscayne Times Newspaper:
* reposted with 2010 update below

The City Inn hotel at 660 NW 81st Street in West Little River is the kind of place you wouldn’t recommend to your worst enemy. Tattooed pimps with gold teeth patrol the surrounding streets on spray-painted bicycles. Drug-ravaged women in stained miniskirts and worn-out pumps drift in and out of the lobby, stopping occasionally on the curb outside to light a cigarette, thrust out a hip, and nod to passing male motorists.

To most people, the ten-story City Inn is just one of many eyesores along I-95. Nestled against the west side of the expressway, it stands out more than most buildings along that particular stretch of asphalt, thanks to the large soft-drink banner and other ever-changing advertisements that completely cover the north and east sides of the hotel. Cellular companies lease roof space from the inn, and their large white antennae sit prominently atop the building, lending the hotel a hint of technological sophistication. Up close, though, there’s nothing sophisticated about it.

“That place is really, really bad,” says veteran Ofcr. Darrell Nichols of the Miami Police Department, when asked about the hotel. And with that grim assessment, I decide to do what any sensible writer would do: go and get a room.

To read more, click here.

Illustrated version available here: Edifice Complex: City Inn.

(Aug, 2010 follow-up story here: Mural, Mural on the Wall).

Published in the June, 2010 issue of the Biscayne Times newspaper:

On the quiet Oleta River in North Miami Beach, where tall mangrove forests grow along the ancient shorelines and block out the noise of the city beyond, a nine-person crew sits in a long, hand-painted boat, waiting for an order. Bent forward, arms poised at the ready, their fists clench long wooden paddles. A steersman, standing at the stern, grips the skiff’s rudder by the handle and issues his command: “Go!”

The crew lets loose, plunging their paddles into the murky water, using the strength of their upper bodies to push their 40-foot Chinese dragon boat upriver. The vessel glides along at an impressive speed, each paddler pummeling the water in sync until, 250 meters along, the steersman calls for an intermission. “Let it ride!” he yells.

The paddles come up, the paddlers catch their breath, and peace returns to the winding waterway — until they repeat the drill moments later.

Every weekend the scene plays out the same way. The Puff Dragon Boat Racing Team (Puff, for short) races their dragon up and down the placid Oleta until — as they like to say — they’ve drained their tanks.

To read more, click here.

Remembering the Captain
100 years later, Jacques Cousteau is still captain of our imaginations.
June 11th, 2010

He was a portrait of grace, a symbol of adventure, a mythical-looking figure in a red wooly cap. Born one hundred years ago today, famed French explorer Jacques Cousteau remains as relevant and iconic as he was during his illustrious lifetime — especially to the millions of fans who grew up watching his high-sea adventures unfold on their TV screens.

For those of us who were children in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s, one of the great and simple images to which our hearts first opened was that of Cousteau traversing the world’s oceans in his ship Calypso. He and his team of charismatic explorers called on foreign ports that we couldn’t visit ourselves, discovered ancient sites that we knew only from dreams, and lived life in a limitless way that few of us will ever experience.

More than three decades have passed since The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau or The Jacques Cousteau Odyssey series shimmered across our television screens, but we think of them often. We think of rusty medieval war canons being lifted onto Calypso’s deck, of Cousteau sniffing Roman amphorae for ancient wine, of chief diver Falco resurrecting bronze statuettes from watery Aegean graves, of dolphins playfully flanking Calypso’s hull as she glided through pristine Caribbean waters.

And then there’s the lasting image of Cousteau’s team gathered on deck, sharing a laugh or a cigarette, or passing around Venetian coins retrieved from a wreck below. Their camaraderie, their unmatched collection of shared voyages, evoked the tales of Homer and they not only took us along on their odyssey, they provided us with a musical soundtrack and a poetic narrative that made the journey more than an adventure, it made it art.

“I’m not interested in achievements,” Cousteau once said, “I’m interested in having an interesting life and sharing it with the public.” And that he did, in more than 150 films, TV shows and books. Yet, he still found time to co-invent the aqualung, father the science of undersea archaeology, advance underwater filming techniques, and later co-invent the Turbosail, a hybrid wind-motor propulsion system for ships. As the inscription on his National Geographic Society Gold Medal reads, “To earthbound man, he gave the key to the silent world.”

The legendary Calypso

If Cousteau deserves criticism, it’s for setting an impossible precedent for authentic living. How many of us, after all, will ever experience the freedom, danger, joy, and pioneering thrill of the Calypso crew? Tethered to our computers, trapped in an online world, most of us feel ever more alienated from the natural realm. Even our brief episodes of escape can feel inadequate. Modern commercial jet travel, crowded airports, contrived vacation resorts, they do nothing to satisfy the adventurous spirit.

In that sense, most of us don’t care that Cousteau had no scientific credentials, or about his untidy family affairs, or whether he failed twice for every success. What we care about is what Jacques Cousteau represents to us: freedom, art, discovery, the joy of being the first and best at what you do, living by the motto “Il faut aller voir” (“We must go and see for ourselves”). “We are not documentary,” Cousteau once said, “we are adventure films.” And it was the adventure that mattered to us. Not the science.

One of the lessons we learned from the Captain’s life is that it doesn’t take advanced educational degrees or wealth to achieve success — neither of which Cousteau had. It takes only creativity, desire, and an instinct for innovation. Cousteau evolved from a sickly child into a self-proclaimed misfit, then into a naval officer, later into an inventor and master cinematographer, and finally into the world’s greatest ocean explorer. “Sometimes we are lucky enough to know that our lives have been changed,” Cousteau said about his first experience using goggles underwater — an experience which ignited his passion for undersea exploration.

In his later years, Cousteau transformed from voyeur to activist and used his fame to influence environmental policies on things like overfishing, pollution, population growth, nuclear waste and global warming. He also began describing the earth as a delicate and limited planet — a message which set the tone for much of today’s discourse on environmentalism.

Photo courtesy of the BBC

But the details of Jacques Cousteau’s life are fuzzy now for most of us, and it’s those simple, early images that still dominate our thoughts: Cousteau emerging from his diving saucer after a 1,000ft-dive in the dark depths of the Atlantic; his son Philippe hovering over the sparkling glaciers of Antarctica in a multi-colored hot-air balloon; the team’s helicopter circling a Greek island in search of Atlantis.

“I have accepted death not only as inevitable but also as constructive,” Cousteau once said. “If we didn’t die, we would not appreciate life as we do.” We were young when Cousteau uttered those words, and knew nothing of death, but we appreciated life because he appreciated it, and because he showed us how. He was not only captain of the Calypso, he was captain of our imaginations, and clearly one of the great men of the 20th century. Our only question now is, where is the successor to the charismatic man who skippered the dreams of our youth?

It has been said that true happiness lies in the fulfillment of childhood aspirations. If there’s any truth to that statement, then happiness for many of us means climbing aboard an affectionately named ship, pointing to the horizon, and announcing to a small group of bold adventurers, “We must go and see for ourselves.”

Published in the May, 2010 issue of the Biscayne Times newspaper:

It was a water-pumping station, a house of music, a private residence, maybe a church, a chop shop, flop house, meeting place for mystics, and finally a beauty salon. There may even be a dead body buried in the backyard.

For decades, the grotto-like structure at 5808 NE 4th Ct. in Miami’s Upper Eastside was known simply as the Lemon City Pump House. Named for the citrus-rich agricultural community that once flourished nearby, the coral-rock building looked, to most locals, like a stone chapel. But beyond its sweeping entryway arches and heavy wooden doors sprung a once-rich supply of pure drinking water.

To read more, click here.

Published in the March 5th, 2010 issue of The Lead newspaper:

Artist Franklin Sinanan delivered six paintings and one sculpture to Miami Beach City Hall early last month. His work was put on display there as part of a Black History Month art exhibit.

Since dropping off his artwork, however, Sinanan has revisited City Hall twice to remove pieces the city later decided were inappropriate.

Born in Trinidad and raised in Canada, Sinanan’s work has taken on a distinct Afro-Caribbean flair since moving to Miami two years ago. “In Canada,” he says, “my work never looked like this. It was just a lot of white faces.”

Now, some people are afraid to step into his Lincoln Road studio because of the voodoo-like elements in his work. He’s been called a witch doctor. Some visitors ask to be healed. One woman wanted his blessing to help help her land a large sum of money.

To read more, click here.

Like many artists who ply their trade in studios, warehouses, and garages around the world, David Zalben says it’s not about the money. It’s about connecting with people. “Every day I’m here is an opportunity to meet somebody new. It’s not just about making a sale.”

And if Zalben were a solitary artist, in a lonely studio, in some godforsaken part of town, his social appetite might seem strange. But Zalben’s tidy, little workspace is on Lincoln Road, Miami Beach’s famed pedestrian thoroughfare, where every year thousands of people stroll, and strut, amidst stores, restaurants, and clubs.

Tucked into a two-storey, 1930’s-era, art deco building, Zalben’s studio has no street-level presence. He shares the partitioned, former department store with 27 other emerging artists. 13 more work in a similar building just down the street. They all pay very little in rent, help each other along, and enjoy the kind of exposure only dreamed of by most visual artists.

What makes for such favorable artistic conditions?: ArtCenter / South Florida, a 25-year-old non-profit aimed at doing everything one organization can possibly do to advance the knowledge of contemporary art in Miami.

To read more, click here.

Published in the January, 2010 issue of the Biscayne Times newspaper:

The days when Miami was awash in cocaine, cash, and bullet-riddled bodies are over. Today art gallery owners likely outnumber drug lords, and running gun battles are far less common than book fairs, art festivals, music conferences, and fashion shows. What was once the nation’s murder capital is now a well-branded cultural Mecca.

So just over a year ago, when the body of 18-year-old high school senior Alex Tillman was found beside the FEC railway tracks in Wynwood, the killing seemed reminiscent of an earlier decade, when violent criminals and cartel hit men committed scores of equally brutal slayings.

At the time of Tillman’s death, local news outlets made a point to mention that he had no criminal record and no involvement with drugs or gangs — declarations made necessary, apparently, because he was from Overtown, where most murders are still drug-related.

Indeed Tillman didn’t fit the profile of someone whose life was likely to end in criminal violence. His murder, friends and family suspect, was likely motivated by something else altogether — jealousy.

To read more, click here.

The briefest novel excerpt ever. Featured on Six Sentences:

The old wind-up clock on the bedside table said three a.m. and the boy, sitting on his windowsill, fought the heavy, persuasive lure of sleep. The street below was empty except for the occasional moped whirring by in the night, briefly obscuring the nighttime cricket songs of summer and throwing up invisible plumes of pungent smoke. Ship lights blinked in the dark distance and some were so far out to sea that it was hard to tell whether they were stars low on the horizon or large vessels on the verge of dipping down to the other side of the earth. An hour passed and drowsiness eventually jumbled his thoughts to the point of hallucination, until he slid off of the windowsill and onto his bed, but sleep didn’t come easily and once again he was awake and staring at the stars through the open window. For years, they appeared as white dots painted on a flat surface, but now he could see their depth and understood that the bright ones were closer and the faint ones farther away. The notion of eternity briefly entered his brain and a sick, helpless feeling took hold of his gut and he closed his eyes and tried to think of something else, but the thought would never be far from his mind again.

Also featured on RealAdventures.com:

Although often overshadowed by expatriate hotspots like Costa Rica, Nicaragua, and Panama, El Salvador is proving to be a viable alternative for travelers in search of a low-key, low-cost Central American adventure.

Popular with the outdoors set for years, El Salvador’s empty beaches, mountainous terrain, and rustic appeal have been attracting surfers, hikers, mountain-bikers, and plain old pioneering spirits ever since the country’s civil war ended sixteen years ago. Beaches like El Sunzal sport long, slow swells that are perfect for experienced and aspiring surfers alike. $25 will get you a one-hour surfing lesson with the resident instructor at Sunzal’s Casa de Mar, a tropical hillside hotel made up of 11 villas. $40 buys drinks and a full-course meal for two at their hilltop restaurant overlooking the Pacific—think fried fish, ceviche, and seafood cocktails.

Nature-lovers will want to head north into the cooler air of El Pital, the nation’s highest point (8,957 ft.), to explore the region’s lush pine, oak, and cypress forests. Cabins and guest rooms start at $50 at quaint eco-retreats like El Pital Highland. Hiking, camping, paragliding, canoeing, and horseback riding are offered, but simply basking in the solitude and tranquility of the region also makes El Pital a satisfying spiritual retreat.

The best part: El Salvador uses the American dollar as its local currency. There are no money exchange hassles and the cash in your wallet increases in value as soon as the plane touches down at Comalapa International Airport. And the lack of large-scale tourism means that over-priced tourist traps and foreigner-hungry hustlers are still a rare breed in the country.

Go during the dry season (November-April) when it’s easier to travel around the country. Keep in mind that many services shut down around Christmas, Easter, and the first week of August. Prices may increase during those periods.

The list below covers some of the most accessible places to stay, eat, and visit in the country. Some of the listings are considered “luxury.” In Tom Thumb-sized El Salvador though, nearly all are priced well below North American standards and the atmosphere is always casual.

WHERE TO STAY

Los Almendros de San Lorenzo: Although one of El Salvador’s finest boutique hotels, prices are still incredibly low. Double rooms start at $85 and huge, beautifully decorated suites start at just $120. This restored centuries-old hacienda is located in Suchitoto, an old Spanish town which has changed very little since the days of the Conquistadors. Cobblestone streets lined with cotton trees and white-washed colonials overlook scenic Lake Suchitlan. Visit Santa Lucia Mártir, the historic 16th century church that stands in the town’s plaza, or take a ferry ride across the lake to pass some time. Dinner and drinks for two at the hotel’s gourmet restaurant average $50. The oversized garlic shrimp easily rival anything the Mediterranean has to offer.

• 4a Calle Poniente 2b, Suchitoto; 011-503-2335-1200; www.hotelsalvador.com.

Casa de Mar: If you surf, or always wanted to, Casa de Mar is the place to be. Situated on a hillside overlooking El Sunzal beach—one of the world’s best surfing spots—a night for two in one of the large villas runs about $150. If that seems steep for Central America, consider that similarly luxurious retreats in Costa Rica cost upwards of $250 a night. Each villa has a TV, air-conditioning, cozy furnishings, and a deck overlooking the ocean. Even sans surfboard, this low-key hotel is a great place to unwind. The pool is just steps from the beach and, despite Sunzal’s international fame, there are precious few tourists to be seen. Stroll the beach at dusk and have a drink at one of the surfside cafes under the large coconut palms.

• KM. 43 Carretera del Litoral, El Sunzal, La Libertad. 011-503-2389-6284; www.casademarhotel.com.

El Pital Highland: You’ll need to rent a car to get to this high-altitude retreat—and make sure it’s a four-wheel drive. Three cabins, eight guest rooms, and a partially outdoor restaurant sit atop Cerro El Pital (Pital Hill). The chilly weather (usually in the 60’s) makes for a welcome change from El Salvador’s lower elevated tropics. Rooms start at $50 and a steak dinner for two goes for about $20. Gaze across mountains, volcanoes, and rivers toward neighboring Honduras and Guatemala while hiking or enjoying one of the many outdoor activities.

• Reservation office in San Salvador is located at 1a Calle Poniente & 21 Ave. Norte, #1204; 011-503-2259-0602; www.elpital.com.sv

Royal Decameron: If an all-inclusive resort with multiple pools, all-you-can-eat buffets, and an open bar is more your style, then you may want to consider Royal Decameron. This 552-room hotel tends to attract a slightly rowdier mix of Canadians and Eastern Europeans who come for the fun and the sun. Located on Salinitas beach, 45 minutes from the capital, the two-year-old resort offers spa facilities, a gym, five restaurants, guided excursions, and a nightclub. You may have to book through an agent to get the best price, but $1,000 per week for an all-inclusive stay for two adults is typical.

• Kilometer 79 on the road to Acajutla, Sonsonate; 011-503-2209-3100; www.decameron.com

El Pimiental Beach, San Luis Talpa, La Paz: Consider renting a house at this desolate beach just 25 minutes from the airport. City-dwelling Salvadorans employ cuidanderos (caretakers) to watch over their beach houses in the area. These same cuidanderos are often paid to cook and look out for guests who rent the properties. You’ll need a car to get around, but if you can snag a deal on a house, it’s worth experiencing the bliss of swinging from a hammock just steps from a deserted beach and dreaming about never going home. Check websites like www.viviun.com and www.vrbo.com for home listings. Prices vary greatly, but expect to pay around $150 a day. Considering the seclusion and beauty, it’s a very reasonable price (especially spilt several ways).

• From the airport: take the Comalapa Road toward San Salvador, get off at the San Luis Talpa exit, and follow the signs to El Pimiental.

WHERE TO EAT

Pollo Campero: Although this is basically a Guatemalan fast food franchise, Salvadorans wax poetic when describing the fried chicken served at this Central American favorite. Flights from El Salvador to the U.S are often redolent with the smell of crispy tostones, sweet plantains, heavily seasoned beans, and the venerated fried chicken that Salvadorans bring with them in take-out boxes. To visit El Salvador and not sample Pollo Campero is a mortal sin. Bring about $5 for each diner.

• Check the website for locations, or just look for the chicken-in-a-cowboy-hat logo. www.campero.com.

La Curva de Don Gere: This ocean-side eatery attracts a steady stream of locals with its huge selection of traditional dishes—Platos Tipicos—and revolving troupes of Mariachis that can seemingly belt out any Spanish song ever penned for a dollar. Located near the bustling port town of La Libertad, Don Gere is near surfing hotspots like El Sunzal, El Tunco, and El Zonte. Meat dishes start at $5, seafood at $8, and sandwiches go for about $3. Be sure to visit the port just down the road and watch fisherman haul in and prepare their catch at the fish market on the pier.

• On the road to San Diego, 600 meters east of the Shell station, La Libertad; 011-503-2335-3436. There are other locations throughout the country.

La Posada de Suchitlan: Waitresses in flowing multi-colored dresses serve unbeatable Gallina India (country chicken) at this wood and stucco restaurant on the cliff-side. The panoramic view of Lake Suchitlan will have you breaking out the camera and snapping pictures before you even sit down to order. There are rooms for rent (La posada is also an Inn), but most people come for the food and the view. Stop in on your way to Suchitoto. A full course meal for two (with drinks) will set you back about $25.

• Final 4ª Calle Poniente, Blvd. San José, Suchitoto; 011-503-2335-1064.

Champitas: No trip to El Salvador would be complete without visiting a local champita (roadside canteen). In these ubiquitous makeshift shacks, $3 will get you a plate of …something. Whether it’s a piece of grilled chicken with rice and beans, tortillas with cheese, or a few pupusas, the emphasis is on price. Many a surfer and backpacker have subsisted exclusively on champita food for longer than is recommended. Try to find one that looks well-kempt.

Cafe San Fernando: The first thing that most visitors to San Salvador notice is the large volcano looming over the city—and the first impulse is to climb it. A two-lane road winds upward through thick foliage and eventually deposits you at scenic Café San Fernando just short of the summit. Grilled rabbit, beef loin, salmon, and a jalapeno-coated t-bone steak are on the menu. But coffee, pie, and the spectacular view of San Salvador are what bring most patrons here ($3 should cover it). Afterwards, continue up to the summit and peer into El Boqueron (the crater).

• Kilometer 23.5, Carretera Ruta Boqueron, San Salvador; 011-503-7877-8944.